This is an old classical guitar, it might be up to seventy years old. It buzzes with every note but it’s the loudest on the G string. Please help.

  • masterofn001@lemmy.ca
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    3 days ago

    I’m confused with the gauge and type of strings.

    Looks like it’s strung Ebeadg. The top 3 look nylon, but the low strings looklike something else.

    Agree with others opinions about nut, winding, and pegs (machine head).

    Edit: Sorry for being confused, I promise to know everything next time. So I can also downvote people who are unsure about a thing.

    • maennersindautos@lemmy.worldOP
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      4 days ago

      It’s a normal set of strings at eadgbe. shit, is the low e supposed to be at the farthest peg?

      Edit: I don’t think so, no, what confused you here?

      Edit 2: the thicker strings are nickel wound nylon. This is pretty normal

      • masterofn001@lemmy.ca
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        4 days ago

        The guage just looks off to me. (I’ve never used nylon)

        Your D looks so thin (relative to your other strings) it looks like my B and your G looks like my A.

        But I’m using copper, or bronze, or something… it’s been a while.

        • derfunkatron@lemmy.world
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          4 days ago

          The basses on a classical guitar are nylon filaments wrapped in silver or nickel plated copper; the trebles are solid nylon or carbon fiber. The tension and gauge required is drastically different for those strings different because of the materials.

          Here’s the gauges for a particular set of classical strings I’ve used in the past:

          • E/1st .024
          • B/2nd .028
          • G/3rd .034
          • D/4th .0291
          • A/5th .0354
          • E/6th .0433

          And you’re right that the G and A, and B and D strings look to be of similar size! But when these strings are put under tension, they reach different pitches.

          • masterofn001@lemmy.ca
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            3 days ago

            Thanks. I was thinking the tension of nylon would be different, didn’t realize there was that much difference between them and standard metal wound strings.

            • derfunkatron@lemmy.world
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              3 days ago

              No problem! Another difference between classical strings and acoustic/electric strings is that tension is how nylon strings sold by tension instead of gauge; the gauges are mostly there for reference.

              It’s also common to mix tensions between the basses and trebles or use a string from a different manufacturer or material set. I don’t think this practice is as common with the steel string/electric world.

              • masterofn001@lemmy.ca
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                3 days ago

                I did not know that. Thanks.

                Is there a tension tool for stringing / tuning?

                Are nylon/carbon/classical more susceptible to breaking than metal/acoustic?

                (I have done repairs on electric and acoustics - my books only separate into those 2. Classical not mentioned)

                I appreciate your friendliness and knowledge.

                • derfunkatron@lemmy.world
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                  3 days ago

                  Happy to share (I don’t get the opportunity very often to just talk about the classical guitar itself!).

                  You don’t need a tension tool or anything; you’d wind the string like normal up to pitch. If you’re new to restringing them, I’d suggest using a tuner that displays the frequency in hertz so you don’t over-tighten. I eventually got to a point where I can hear/feel when it’s close to pitch.

                  Some caveats though: Nylon strings stretch. So it typically takes awhile for them to settle and stay in tune. I learned in college that tuning them up a full step would stretch them enough to set overnight as opposed to a week. Also, with high tension strings specifically, you have to wind the string a lot for it to reach the correct tension, so the only tool I’d recommend is a string winder (but definitely not an automatic one).

                  Because the strings are tied off on both ends, they will slip out if the knots are tied in the wrong direction or without enough wraps on the pegs or the wrong knot on the bridge. At higher tension, they slip with much more gusto.

                  In my experience, steel/electric strings break more often. I never had classical strings break until I started using a specific brand (Hannabach). Apparently this brand is notorious for shitty D strings, which is exactly which one broke repeatedly for me. Luckily, for most classical sets you can buy individual strings, so for every set I would buy, I’d get a redundant D string - and I would always end up using it. Changed brands and no more broken strings.

                  • masterofn001@lemmy.ca
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                    3 days ago

                    Truly appreciated.

                    I’d be happy to learn whatever else you find exciting about the classical (I’m fond of learning from people with a passion on any topic)

                    Funny about the specific string. I think it was d’adario where I had the same problem. Only it was the B. Always the B.

                    I’m still always a bit apprehensive when putting on new strings and tuning up the B.

                    Metal stretch a bit mostly on the low end, I usually tune up, pull, tune up. Not nearly as much as the nylon would seem. Pegs in acoustics some acoustics are a pain for slippage.

                    I use a nifty free app on my android for tuning.

                    Universal tuner